Categories
Bouldering Climbing

Training for Rock Climbing: A Guide for People with a Full Time Job and Career

Climbing and bouldering are hyped right now. Everyone is training with a system now, and new disciplines, methods, and programs pop up almost daily. This being said, some of the applications can overwhelm and between the forest of campus board training, grip strength, moon board, endurance, ancap core, and recreational training stretching and technique, tactics and yoga it’s easy to lose track. There are tons of ways of training for rock climbing, and it’s almost too much at this point. Especially when you’re over 30, just started climbing and maybe have a family and full time career. So better make good use of the little time you have at hand and read this guide for basic training for rock climbing, where i explain some methods to keep in mind. My article on training for rock climbing consists of a systematic approach and is based on six different parts, that all need some attention. Follow these guidelines and you will evolve into a strong and well rounded climber in no time!

Note that this is an overview, but i included links to further reading and watching material. That way this article stays lean and teaches you the concepts, but for details you can refer to these other resources.

1. The usual not so great approach

Most people take the easy route of picking some part of the training regime they like and do that part over and over until they progress and send harder routes. Sounds like gambling, and it kind of is as working on your strengths and ignoring weaknesses is not the best method to improve.
Training is like balancing and configuring any complex system: If you do it right, it can be measured, and progress is inevitable. But you need a sound system.
Today I’m discussing different training methods and how they can help you to become a better climber even if you’re over 30 and still a beginner.

2. The smart approach: essential training for rock climbing consists of 6 different parts

1. Climbing and bouldering
2. Grip strengths
3. Climbing endurance
4. Campus board training
5. Agility and flexibility
6. Balance and Recreation

When we talk about these methods, we will use the term climbing both for rock climbing and bouldering as the techniques apply to both disciplines.
In the long run, your training methods need to be balanced. When you’re a beginner, you need to focus on different aspects than someone who is sending 8+ routes.
Beginner: 4-5c, focus only on climbing and bouldering and don’t even worry about the other aspects
Advanced: 6a-7b, work in some Agility, balance and grip strength
Serious: 7c+, focus on grip strength and involve campus board training

2.1 Climbing and bouldering

This includes anything and everything you do on the wall or a rock, indoors and outdoors. It’s THE most crucial part of the training, as the hardest part of becoming a good climber is learning to be efficient. We’re gonna differentiate between “learning to climb” and conditioning.

2.1.1 Learning to climb

Involves anything you use your brain for, such as
– learning new moves
– climbing under pressure
– redpoint approaches
– trying hard boulder problems in a gym by solving a problem
It also includes tactics to control the fear of falling, and when you work on these skills, you will become better in conquering challenging routes. If you’re looking for some awesome videos from a pro checkout https://trainingforclimbing.com/, Erics site is a great resource to tap in!

2.1.2 Conditioning

Conditioning training is focused on single aspects of climbing like
– improving blood flow in your forearms leading to higher climbing endurance
– working on your ability to send complex boulder problems

2.1.3 Transferring gym skills to outdoor climbing

Most of the training takes place indoors these days, especially if you live in cold climate zones. And while the movement itself is similar, climbing outdoor is a different beast as it overwhelms beginners both with abundance of holds and grips and lack of them as well. So you need to work on your mental ability to transfer the skills learned indoors to the outside world.
The best way to progress is to search for boulder rocks outdoor and send those with training partners with a progressive and positive attitude. Judge each other and give advice on how to approach.

Essential training for rock climbing
Still the best way to get better at climbing: Actual climbing. It doesn’t matter if it’s indoors our outdoors.

2.2 Training the grip strength

The exercise machine of choice for grip power is the hangboard (also called training board). In addition to climbing and bouldering, hanging on the exercise board handles according to the training principle of specificity is the best way to increase the strength in your fingers. There are lot’s of training methods. but this is a good guide on how to do hangboard training.

2.3 Climbing specific endurance training

Endurance in climbing sports, in contrast to many other sports, is limited to mostly static movements of forearms and core/leg muscles.
This is different from cardiovascular endurance training, like jogging or racing bike driving. Unfortunately, these training forms do not contribute directly to improved climbing performance. They may even have adverse effects in the worst case. Training for rock climbing does not necessarily involve long sessions of endurance training.
In some cases though, endurance training for climbers can make sense when used with good targeting. Examples are very long climbs or boulders.

2.4 Hangboard

The campus or hangboard is a slightly overhanging wooden board on which, at regular intervals, wooden strips are attached. At this one performs different exercise, which lead to enormous strength gains. It is used to train different climber-specific abilities specifically.

my diy campus board
This DIY setup for hangboards is under 100$ and flexible. Check out my article about it!

Unfortunately, this training device also offers great injury potential, especially when your body ages. Therefore, this type of training is reserved for athletes, who climb in the upper ninth grade and harder. In these athletes, the band and tendon apparatus for the high intensity of this training is the earliest ready.
If you’re interested in campus board training, check out my guide on how to build one for less than 100$ without drilling holes in your walls.

2.5 Agility

Agility helps you get your power to the wall. This is even more important when over the age of 30. It is no coincidence that Adam Ondra is known for the heaviest routes in the world and his enviable mobility at the same time.
Training flexibility also makes it harder to climb and maintain a healthy body. Because what you do not use or train you lose. And over time, the lack of agility not only limits the climbing performance but also leads to all sorts of ailments.
Optimally as a separate unit, follow this approach for agility training:
– 2x a week is enough, not more than 7x
– Fast progress means fast loss of achievements, so keep doing it
– 15 minutes per unit are already enough
– Train legs and hips as they are crucial for climbing and bouldering
– Try to do it separate from other climbing or AFTER climbing training (Less prone to injuries that way)
How? Just look at stretching routines for climbers, mobilization exercises and yoga.

2.6 Stabilization and balance training

Stabilization and balancing training are the buzz words of the climbing training in recent years. There have been many books and more magazine articles about it.
But what does it mean?

Stability and balance are vital to stay healthy and to be able to climb, boulder, and train for a long time.
The most common problems from climbing are rounded back and congestion complaints, such as the climbers elbow or a shoulder impingement. Usually, the training consists of strengthening the opposing muscles (antagonists) and stretching the over-pronounced muscles.
Additionally or alternatively, gymnastic rings are also an excellent training tool for a climbing program. Many of the exercises on the sling trainer can also be performed on the rings.More advanced exercises, such as muscle-ups or dips, can be trained.
Yoga combines elements of the training approaches mobility and stabilization or antagonist training. However, one should listen to his body in pain because yoga is not the same as yoga. Sometimes more specific exercises are necessary.

3.1 Objectives when training for rock climbing

Climbing training always has a goal. The goal is also a key to motivation because specific climbing training is exhausting and sometimes very monotonous.
For a  broad approach with good results, you should set the goals in annual or seasonal pyramids, which are becoming more and more demanding. This will enhance your skills in the difficulties you have already encountered while optimally working towards the next level of performance. Wide-ranging climbing training leads to what is commonly referred to as a good climber or boulderer. The most prominent example of this is Adam Ondra, who has built up the most impressive pyramid in climbing history from an early age: He is strong and flexible and has remarkable technique and route reading skills.

3.2 The “well rounded climber” – a short profile of haves

– Broad skill set about sport climbing, bouldering, alpine climbing, trad climbing
– Experienced on various rocks, such as lime, granite, sandstone, conglomerate
– Clear strengths, but no pronounced weaknesses, such as overhang climbing or finger holes
– Sets great goals and achieves them via suitable intermediate goals

4. The Training Principle of Specificity

This principle states that the more specific training is attuned to the goal, the more effective it will be. However, on the horizon of a long-term, continually improving climbing life, an athlete usually benefits more from an extensive climbing training. There are more routes, boulders, and opportunities open than working on isolated skills.
The ultimate goal of climbing training is to be able to climb routes and boulders of different requirements on an individually high level. It is quite natural to take the step into a new level of difficulty in an area that suits you, such as: B. athletic overhang climbing or inguinal climbing.
Building on this, the skills are developed with continuous training and exercise in the new degree, in order to actually master this in different requirement constellations.

5. Training plan for climbing and bouldering

Based on the information in this article and the training principles for climbing training, a training plan can be put together.

5.1 Who needs a training plan?

This is difficult to answer in general. One starting point could be that your own performance fluctuates strongly over the year and can not be sustained. Another angle is the amount of activity needed to increase performance. If these are very diverse and tactically the colder seasons are selected for vheavy rock projects, a training plan makes perfect sense.

5.2 A few cornerstones for a climbing training plan to be successful:

Goal-oriented: A training plan has a goal. This is usually a new grade or route. But it is also possible to prioritize a weakness or a single aspect, such as aerobic endurance.
Measurable: The most exciting measure is, of course, the climbed grade, but this depends on a variety of factors. Therefore, some metrics are defined where you can read off the improvements over time. These include, for example, finger power, pull-ups, and agility.
Workouts are planned according to the training principles and goals and weaknesses. In terms of content, the graph above shows the relationship between training content and grades.
Depending on the desired timing and number of power highs, a form of periodization should be used. You can choose between classical and non-linear periodization. There should be one or two rest periods lasting several weeks during the year so that the nervous system can recover from continuous stress and heal minor injuries.
You should record training and days spent outdoors in a training diary. Especially for the tracking of progress and injuries, the training diary is helpful to be able to identify patterns afterward.

6. Professional Coaches

So far, a professional training in climbing sport was only open to professional athletes and members of performance groups. This is changing increasingly lately. In other sports, it is common practice to use regular coaching lessons, while in rock climbing and bouldering this is slow to spread. Points of contact are the teams of climbing and bouldering halls, but here the quality varies.

7. Conclusion

Climbing when you’re not 20 anymore needs special focus, and i hope you can learn something from this guide. Most important takeaway: Keep your measurement of success objective, make notes and focus on incremental improvement. That’s what basic training for rock climbing is all about.

Maker sure to also read some of  my other guides on bouldering training, endurance training and how to build your own hangboard setup cheap and quick for your home.

Categories
Climbing

What’s the difference between flash and onsight?

Redpoint, lead climbing, and “I have flashed this ” makes no sense to you?
Is this just gibberish, jargon and or maybe even something terrible?
Don’t worry, these are standard terms in climbing sports, such as golf handicap or a home run in baseball. It’s about how you approach a route and what “counts” as a successful approach.

You see, in climbing it’s all about how you approach and ascend a route because if it weren’t, you could just use a huge ladder and climb it to the top. What’s the difference between flash and onsight? Flash means someone gives you beta or tips or you watch another climber first and then try the route. Onsight means you come to the climbing route or Boulder and successfully climb it without any information about it beforehand.

Difference between flash and onsight

Let’s answer this really quick first, and a bit more in detail.
Flash and onsight are describing ways to approach a route. Both mean that you are of course lead climbing and able to successfully conquer the route on the first attempt. But they have an essential distinction:

Flash means you climb a route first try and you are allowed to get information about it. This information or “beta” as climbers call it, you can get both before and while you climb it. Beta comes from watching another climber, reading about the route, or even watching a video. It can also be from your buddy who gives you valuable bits about which hold works best, which moves you need. You can even have someone yell at you while you climb.

Onsight means you climb a route first try but you have no information, except where the route is, and the grade. You are not allowed to have any beta before and while you climb. And even the grade information is something where old-school climbers might disagree.
You only know what’s in the guidebook or topo guide. Onsighting a route is the king discipline of climbing. It’s also the most authentic test of your  overallskills as a rock climber. So if you see someone you don’t know lead climbing a route, DON’T yell beta at them without them asking for it – you might destroy their onsight approach by accident.

This difference is not so crucial for bouldering usually, but it’s super vital to sport and traditional climbing. It’s safe to state that most tough routes are not onsighted but rather projected by climbers. By trying them multiple times, they develop information about it and even let other climbers guide them.

Technical Climbing

Technical climbing is a symbiosis of craftsmanship, courage, and engineering. Today there are only a few people who identify with technical climbing alone. Often it is used to conquer high walls in which due to weather conditions or lack of holds no free climbing is possible.
In technical climbing, there are five difficulty levels from A0 to A5, where the A stands for aid. A0 is basically a line with drilled hooks so close that you can just reach from one hook to the next and pull yourself up, without any danger. In contrast, if a passage rates A5, it means in case of a fall, all or most the safety gear that has been laid will probably come off and there is a real chance of dying.

Free climbing introduction

The craft of technical climbing had developed so far until the middle of the 20th century that you could climb every wall with just enough bolts. The adventure had died, and the upcoming free climbing heralded the end of this “Iron Age”.
In free climbing, you only use your hands and feet to move upwards using holds and footholds the rock offers. Free climbing itself doesn’t give any info about whether you use a rope and safety equipment.

So you are not using any technical gadgets to help you reach the top. Back in the day of technical climbing, technical was the only way most people climb, and the modern style of free climbing only started in the early 60s to become really popular.
But the idea of ​​free-climbing had probably been around since at least the 19th century, and it always appeared elsewhere on the surface. An early advocate was Paul Preuss. The massive towering walls of the Alps, however, were mostly ascended by technical climbers and these guys trained for technical climbing in the local low mountain ranges, such as the Frankenjura or Palatinate.

Free climbing revolution

In the 1970s, the young Franke Kurt Albert traveled bored by the dying challenge in technical climbing in the US and Saxony. Saxon Switzerland, a mountainous area in eastern Germany, has had fixed rules of free climbing since the beginning of the century. The emigrated Saxon Fritz Wiessner also transferred these ideas from his homeland to his climbing activities in America, from which a free-climbing movement developed early on.

In the UK were also a lot of free climbers. Kurt Albert brought the idea of ​​free-climbing back to the native Franconia. He began to climb technically-climbed routes in a free-climbing style and then marked them with a red dot.

Redpoint – Rotpunkt – the base of modern climbing sports

Kurt Albert later developed the red dot definition from this new style. It means that a route is considered to have been done successful if it is climbed in the lead and without using technical aid such as chains, hook, etc. The new style quickly became a worldwide standard and is known in the English-speaking world as “redpoint”.
Regardless of which free-climbing discipline one exercises, the red point of a route is always the goal. Only then is it considered to be “sent”. In the conversation among climbers, the term sending it is usually used, if one speaks of a redpoint ascent of a route.

The difference between free climbing, free solo, and free climbing

The terms free climbing and free solo are oftentimes lumped together, especially by journalists. So far, we know what free climbing is and that the term does not say anything about whether or not to secure the climbing with ropes and equipment.
You have to make a sharp distinction between free climbing and Free Solo. In Free Solo you practice free climbing, but it is deliberately without any belaying and safety equipment, aka your life depends on whether you can go through a climb without falling or not.
There are only very few climbers who practice Free Solo, but it is easy to understand and media loves it because it can have extreme fatal consequences. It’s probably the most medial discipline of climbing.

Lead climbing, Toprope and co. – free climbing styles

Anyone who climbs within redpoint definition and measures his performance in this realm is confronted with several possible types of access.
For most beginners the question arises before getting on each route: Lead climbing or instead Toprope? When leading you clip the rope when passing through safety points and climb up to the anchor (last hook) or climb up and leave the route from the top. In the event of a fall, you will end up on the previous safety point you clipped plus another length of any slack rope that may have been present. Which means you definitely take a fall and if you’re close to the ground there is a chance you might touch the ground.

When top-roping there is already a rope in the redirection, which hangs down to one. You’re basically a fish on the hook. Possible falls are therefore minimal. Beginners usually start with Toprope, and many climbers then develop the desire to climb routes in the lead. A toprope approach of a route doesn’t count as redpoint. Often you practice the movements and processes of challenging routes in Toprope before you approach them in the lead to pick up the redpoint.

difference between flash and onsight climbing

Difference between Toprope and following (as second climber)

The terms Toprope and Following or “as second” are often used synonymously. The term “following” or as “second”, however, actually comes from alpine climbing, where a route usually has several pitches. The lead climber climbs up a rope length in the lead, attaches himself and secures the rope second in the climb up to him. Usually now the Follower or “second climber” increases the next length before and secures the second after up to himself.

The Difference between Flash and onsight in detail

Regardless of the discipline, be it sport climbing or traditional climbing, you can onsight and flash a redpoint style route or just go through them normally. I’ll now explain the difference between flash and onsight a bit more in detail.

Onsight

An onsight of a route is considered the supreme discipline in red poodle climbing.
Onsight can be translated as “at first sight”. This means that you do not have any further information before you successfully cross a route, except what you can see from the ground and imagine yourself, that could help you get through it.
This means, for example, the knowledge of the correct sequences of movements, special features of the handles, and reliable resting positions that you get when practicing a routes.

Before an onsight, you look closely at the route of desire, making certain assumptions on the handles and chalk marks and other factors, and then imagine how to climb the route. Depending on how much luck or experience you have these assumptions, and you can climb the route in the first attempt without prior knowledge, so onsight with sufficient strength and endurance.
You only have one try for an onsight. Sounds difficult? It is. That is why Onsight is also considered the most valuable way to visit a route. The heaviest onsights so far have been climbed by Alex Megos and Adam Ondras in grade 9a.

Of course, you can also just get into a route and hope to make the right decision by chance. This is the usual onsight approach, but you will not be able to achieve the same level of onsight as you would with proper preparation.
It is common to try every route that you would like to climb in onsight because “it could work”. In case of failure, the difficulties are then tinkered from hook to hook and then get the pass (just called redpoint or passage).

Flash

With a flash, you climb a route the same way you did on the first try, but with all the information you can get. You can watch other climbers in the route, question them about every detail, comb through Internet forums, and so on. You can really describe each handle and step exactly.
Of course, the only thing you can not do before a flash attempt is to get on the route and touch the handles yourself.
The flash of a route is given less value than an onsight, but the route has still been climbed in the first attempt. Therefore, a flash continues to be considered more valuable than a normal practiced via.

Sending it = Conquering a route redpoint style

If the onsight or flash of a route did not work out, you have to work out and rehearse it until you can go through it without falling.
The level of difficulty that you can achieve in Onsight and Flash is below the true maximum of their abilities for most climbers. This can be achieved by examining each movement, exercise, and planning the route.

Projecting routes

If you know enough and you think you could climb the route, you start climbing red dot attempts. Often you end up in the rope a couple of times until you finally manage to do it and send a tricky section of the climb.
This process is called projecting, and it is a mixture of nervous game, strategy, and fitness test.
Before the widespread adoption of the red dot definition, the views differed as to when a route was considered to have been made, depending on location and time.

difference between flash and onsight climbing

Some old antiquated styles to make you smile

In the English-speaking world, the Yoyo style was the accepted doctrine before the red dot. It meant to climb freely but lay safety or clip existing hooks until you fell. Then you were immediately lowered to the ground. However, you left the rope for the next attempt in the already clipped safety points, so this part was now climbed Toprope. Studying or even closer examination of climbing routes were not allowed. A fall meant immediate lowering, and you just had to try again. This cycle was repeated until you arrived at the anchor or made it to the top and left the route.

By the way, when redpoint approaches started, there was also another accepted style of climbing a route called redcircling. Indicated by a red circle (in contrast to a filled redpoint), it meant you would climb free in the lead, but were allowed to sit in belay and rest. This concept is almost forgotten today. But it’s a nice reminder of the fact that ethics and styles of climbing change evolve and change over time.

A specialty: Headpoint in traditional climbing

In traditional climbing, there is a wide range of safety levels in the respective routes.
Some routes are littered with safety options, making it easy to lay gear everywhere, and some are infamous for having sections where a fall will be fatal even when safety has been laid, due to the fact that the rock is unstable, etc, and as soon as one friend or nut comes off it will start a domino of flying safeties.Sounds crazy to climb a route where you can seriously hurt yourself? For many, that’s just the attraction. Completely controlling your own situation and knowing that you will not fall.

So how do you proceed? Head Point!
Headpoint means the extensive practicing of a traditional route in Toprope until you are so confident in the lead that you can safely lay gear without falling during the most difficult sections. It’s basically safety by practicing climbing instead of drilling and placing sport climbing hooks. Interesting concept, right?

Conclusion

That’s it, we covered most of the critical styles of climbing in modern rock climbing, explaining the difference between flash and onsight as well. I hope you liked this article, feel free to have a look at other articles such as my guide for bouldering training and rock climbing endurance or even some advise on how to find the right climbing pants.
And if you love my site, subscribe and get informed when fresh articles are released, I promise no spam!

Categories
Bouldering Climbing

Portable Hangboard Setup: How to build your own quick and cheap, without drilling your walls

This article has an amazon affiliate link. If you buy the board from amazon via the link i get a small fee – the product costs the same for you, but Amazon makes less. It’s a fair way to help me run this site and get some server money.

This one I wanted to write about for a long time. I’m going to show you a dirt cheap and easy way to build a do it yourself DIY portable hangboard setup. No carpentry skills needed, it’s so easy anyone can do it. It’s way easier than most manuals guide you will find on the internet, and it will not involve any drastic changes to your house or home. That means this portable hangboard setup works without drilling your apartment walls. And it’s going to cost less than 100$ and will take only 15 minutes. You will only need a screwdriver, although an electric drill makes it easier, and I’ll show you some pictures. I will also explain to you why this way of training is great for people with busy lives and how it can improve your climbing.

My Setup – less than 100$ and easy to build:
As i get the question again and again: The hangboard i used for this guide is the Metolius Foundry.
It is cheap (50$), works well for beginners and advanced climbers, and doesn’t weigh a lot. You can get it at Amazon for under 55$.
metolius foundry hangboard

 

I also use a pullup bar like this: Pullup bar from amazon. It costs under 50$.

pull up bar

Busy live =  less time for climbing outside

Climbing in the gym or outside is great. I try to spend as much time outside or there as possible. But sometimes I just don’t have time to drive to the gym and where I live it rains a lot too. If I just want to work on my grip strength and finger technique, I use my own portable trainingboard construction.

Why quick campus board training is great

I’m pretty busy and having a family and wife means I usually have not a lot of free time during the week to train. I found that being able to squeeze in 5 to 10 minutes of finger training and grip exercises for climbing is a great way to maintain an OK level of fitness and if you do it continually you will Improve greatly. Don’t trust me? Let me explain and do some math: If you’re a regular climber and go climbing 2 times a week, climbing 10 routes per session with each session having maybe 3 painful holds and moves you get 2x10x3 = 60 moves that actually push you in the sense of training.


You get stronger by progressive overload, and this is the same for climbing and grip strength and power moves too. Let’s say each move takes around 1 to 2 seconds, then this makes for about 2 minutes of “hard moves training time” per week. But with two climbing sessions, your total time is probably at least 4 hours. 

Hangboard or campus board training

With hangboard training, ff you squeeze in 5 minutes warmup and 3 minutes of hard moves on the campus board  4 times a week, then this takes around half an hour each week and yields you 12 minutes of hard training time. That’s a good ratio, and granted you don’t get the outdoor sensation and friendship and leg and technical training but even without, it’s still a damn good amount of workout to keep you fit, and you can do it between dinner and TV at your own schedule at home. A portable hangboard also gives you flexibility as you can move it around in your house and it’s cheap. Win-win!

My setup: Quick, easy and self made

Of you follow my portable hangboard setup, this training device will cost you less than 100 bucks one-time investment. You can even take it with you on business trips if you drive per car. That’s a definite win in my book. When I bought the campus board, I was kind of hesitant – drilling holes in my dry wood walls didn’t excite me. But then I came up with a different solution. It’s a simple construction made from a campus board, a piece of wood, 4 hanger screws. That way don’t need to start messing around with wood cutting etc., this construction works between your door frames, and you won’t even need to drill holes in the wall. The trick: We’re gonna use a pull-up bar. You can order them on Amazon or any fitness shop. 

The hack: Just mount your favorite fingerboard to a wooden plate and hang it to a pull up bar

A simple 2×8 and some screws won’t cost you a lot, and it does not even take a long time to assemble it. It’s perfect to build on  a rainy afternoon and will give you hours of fun and improved grip for years. The idea is cheap and simple: You mount your favorite campus board to a wooden foundation. Then you use four large handle screws and drill them into the top of the wooden board. Now you can hang this construction to a pulldown bar – or any kind of handle that’s sturdy enough to hold your weight.

Voila done. No need to invest money in a climbing wall, etc., as long as you can live with the fact that your feet are swinging free when you practice. But for me, it wasn’t a problem – I wanted to train grip strength and not feet strength when I use this kind of portable hangboard setup.

The good part: this setup still gives you all the benefits of campus training

Lots of people focus on campus too much or dismiss it altogether. But if you use it right its a super powerful way to develop grip strength like crazy. And you can still practice technique and leg work in the gym or on real rock. Campus boards are such a big thing and have lots of tradition that most gyms have some sort of them installed. There are some caveats, though… 

Don’t go too crazy too fast

As with everything climbing and bouldering related you don’t want to overdo it. Five to ten minutes a day are more than enough to stay fit and. That way, the board training supports your other training regime and will improve finger and forearm strength. It can give you power for difficult moves and endurance to stay calm when you’re in uncomfortable holding positions. 

When to start with finger training 

Don’t start until you have at least a year of climbing experience, because your ligaments and tendons should be adapted to regular climbing. If you have finger injuries, you should also let them heal up entirely and take it easy too. You should also train until you feel your shoulder is taking on too much work, in that case, your fingers are exhausted, and you should pause training to rest. I will probably write another guide about campus board training soon! 

Where to hang the board

Wherever you want. I like to have my portable hangboard mine in the basement but thanks to the pull-up bar you can move it wherever you have door frames. Think about chalk though, you might not want it in your living room if you don’t like chalky furniture. You should also pick a door with enough height, so you don’t touch the ground. Room clearance is usually not a problem because the door itself needs room in front of and behind so your goos too go here.

How to build this setup

You can build this setup with any Hangboard, but i do love THIS board. It’s nice on your skin, cheap and has holds for any level of strength, i can only recommend it!

  1. Wooden 2×8 board
  2. Screws for wood
  3. 6 Hangers with screw
  4. A trainingboard (Metolius for example)
  5. A pull-up bar for your doorframe

How to build it

  1. Buy a cheap training board made from polymer or wood, like Metolius brand or similar
  2. Buy a 2×8 wooden board, cut, so it’s length is slightly wider than your doorframe 
  3. Buy a cheap doorframe pull-up bar
  4. Get 6 screw-in hangers 
  5. Place the screw in hooks on top of the 2×8 board like shown in the picture, drill  holes slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw and then screw the hangers into the wooden board 
  6. Use screws that came with training board and attached it to the 2×8
  7. Hang pull-up bar into the doorframe 
  8. Hang your new training device from the handle of the pull-up bar. The wooden board is slightly wider than the doorframe, and this stabilizes the campus board from swinging

Note: The pull-up bar can withstand your weight easily.

my diy campus board
Backside
my diy campus board
Top where screws go in
my diy campus board
Regular mounting screws

 

Conclusion

Hope you like this idea, and I’m sure your own portable hangboard will work as good for you as it did for me.
I enjoy using it and can only recommend this setup.
For more hacks like this, climbing training and tips, make sure to subscribe for my newsletters –  I promise no spam!