Table of Contents
From cozy beginner shoes to bouldering weapons, we’ve tested new climbing shoes and show you some new ones coming.
We regularly test climbing shoes that are released over the year. Read our review these 7 brand new climbing shoes: Tenaya Mastia, Evolv Kira, Evolv Phantom, Red Chili Voltage Lace, Scarpa Booster, Scarpa Maestro Mid, La Sportiva Theory, Scarpa Drago LV, La Sportiva Zenit, La Sportiva Cobra 4:99.
Tenaya Mastia climbing shoes review
The Mastia from Tenaya meets high demands. It gives the versatile all-rounder, and quite convincingly. This pair of soft slip-on climbing shoes nestles neatly against the foot and gives good feedback when stepping on – you can feel whether you are standing. It is also easy to put on and take off. In steep terrain, it puts pressure on the toes, and when bouldering, it stands up well to friction. However, he falls out with its slightly wider cut rather comfortable. Who wants to climb on longer on the smallest edges, therefore does well to choose it very tight, otherwise it becomes exhausting. Whether spooling pitches or bouldering: The Mastia does it all. Conclusion: Comfortable all-rounder with the urge to go higher. It cuts a good figure not only on the plastic.
positive: Comfortable, medium-wide fit; easy to put on, quick closure with only one Velcro keeps shoe well on the foot; sensitive and precise, pleasantly soft when bouldering and on volume; large toepatch and well-fitting heel help with hooking
negative: in large sizes for small chins almost a bit too soft
Material: Microfiber, unlined
Sole: Vibram XS Grip, 3,5 mm
Info: tenaya.net
Price: 149,95 Euro
Order Tenaya Mastia here in our partner stores
Evolv Kira climbing shoes review
Evolv has with the Kira a very comfortable beginner and all-round shoe in the program. The shoe is slightly asymmetrical and quite narrow cut. Declared as a unisex model, it should thus appeal mainly to women – which is also reflected in the available sizes. The Kira is quite soft and should be bought quite tight for good performance on small steps. One should not expect great support from the sole stiffness and pretension. In the appropriate size, the shoe then climbs very well, with comfort clearly in the foreground. Extreme hooks are not its terrain.
positive: Straight, very comfortable, rather narrow cut; bought tight with good grip in front, even on small steps; very good friction; easy entry and exit, good adjustment of the closure
negative: Some air and relatively little support at the heel; not designed for extreme toe and heel hooks; soft shoe
Construction: Velcroslipper, slightly asymmetrical, straight, without downturn
Upper: Microfiber, without lining
Sole: Trax SAS, 4,2 mm
Sizes: UK 1 – UK 8.5
Info: www.evolvsports.com
Price: 114,95 €
Order Evolv Kira here at our partner stores
Evolv Phantom climbing shoes review
Evolv has designed the Phantom as an extreme bouldering shoe, enlisting the support of experts Daniel Woods and Paul Robinson. The vegan shoe comes with a strong downturn. The new Neoflex heel fits well and thanks to not too high preload without uncomfortable pressure. The overall quite soft shoe brings a lot of pressure directly on the toe and that even in steep terrain. The lacing with a strap that attaches to the shoe at six points and then chains it very tightly to the foot with only one Velcropatch, is located far back and thus makes room for a large Toepatch in front, which can be used prima, especially when hooking on edges.
positive: Good pair of climbing shoes standing even on small steps, very sensitive; pulling in the overhang goes well; also friction and volume hold; heel holds very well in Heelhooks; prima Toepatch
negative: lacing a bit fiddly; Velcropatch inside when bouldering o.k., when rope climbing it loosens quickly on contact with the rope
Construction: Velcroslipper, asymmetric, with strong downturn
Upper: microfiber, partially lined
Sole: Trax SAS, 4,2 mm
Sizes: UK 4 – UK 12.5
Info: www.evolvsports.com
Price: 149,90 €
Order Evolv Phantom here at our partner stores
Red Chili Voltage Lace climbing shoes review
With the Voltage, Red Chili brought a very sensitive and soft bouldering shoe with a slightly wider forefoot. The same comfortable fit now comes with the Voltage Lace, but as a route shoe. To this end, the Voltage Lace has been given a slightly stiffer front, although downturn and other fit are aggressive, as with the Voltage. Instead of a Velcro closure, there is now an asymmetrical lacing with a wide tongue inside. The part-leather, part-synthetic upper barely stretches at all, but does conform somewhat to the shape of the foot. The heel turns out a bit higher than on the Voltage, fits well and doesn’t pinch. A large toepatch helps when hooking with the toes.
positive: Stands very well and brings pleasant support on small steps, without losing much sensitivity; good usable toepatch and well-fitting heel
negative: lacing runs directly over the instep and can initially cause pressure points despite overlapping tongue
Construction: lace-up, asymmetrical, with strong downturn
Upper: leather-synthetic mix, partially lined
Sole: Vibram XS-Grip
Sizes: UK 3 – UK 12
Info: www.redchili.de
Price: 134,90 €
Red Chili Voltage Lace order here at our partner stores
Scarpa Booster climbing shoes review
The new softness is spreading more and more: The Booster is a pair of climbing shoes in the current version that is very flexible, especially in the midfoot, and also just a touch harder in the front. The vegan shoe is strongly asymmetrical, brings neat downturn and should score especially as a competition shoe and on athletic rock routes. Two Velcro straps securely fix the Booster to the foot. On plastic and rock, the slim boot pleases with very high sensitivity and the ability to put pressure on the toes even in the steepest terrain. Small steps do not upset him, and thanks to the softer center and good sole friction, he finds great grip on volumes of all kinds. Thus, the Booster is recommended for attacking climbers.
positive: very sensitive; precise standing even on small steps; friction and volume hold great and pulling in the overhang goes well; heel holds well in heelhooks
negative: Toepatch is a little smaller than the competition; heel had some air
Construction: Velcroslipper, asymmetrical, with strong downturn
Upper: microfiber, lined
Sole: Vibram XS-Grip 2, 3,5 mm
Sizes: 35 – 45
Info: www.scarpa-schuhe.de
Price: 159,95 €
Scarpa Booster order here at our partner stores
Scarpa Maestro climbing shoes review
The Maestro Mid from Scarpa is an ideal shoe for long (trad) routes. He loves cracks, likes friction slabs, finds intersections pretty dufte and is fully on granite and sandstone. And on multi-pitch routes. Or slow climbers who can’t get the harness full enough and then have to sink the whole dangle into the wall. No wonder Scarpa advertises the Maestro Mid as a trad climbing shoe. They’re right, because when you’re trad climbing, it’s not uncommon to get into precarious situations, so a little comfort can’t hurt, even if it’s only on the feet. There, the soft suede shoe fits like a second skin, adapts well even through the far forward lacing. In addition, it offers an almost airy foot climate for a climbing shoe. So you can wear it for hours and be happy at the end of the day thanks to the higher shaft about his uninjured ankles. All good? Not quite: for micro ledges or small holes, the Meister-especially since you like to wear it one size larger-is not quite as suitable. For everything else, however, it is.
positive: easy entry thanks to two loops, soft, adaptable shaft, good ankle protection, sensitive, flexible and very durable sole, vapor-permeable, partially perforated shaft, which keeps the foot climate in balance even on long routes, good heel hold
negative: for small lasts or holes a little too soft
Material: microfiber, 2 mm Eco-Leather
Sole: 4 mm Vibram XS Edge
Last: asymmetrical with slight preload
Info: scarpa-schuhe.de
Price: 149,95 Euro
Scarpa Maestro Mid order here in our partner stores
La Sportiva Theory climbing shoes review
The Theory from La Sportiva is rightly praised as a revolution. The D-Tech construction is truly a formidable innovation: the sole is made from a single piece, but has different thicknesses and pulls up at the sides. The thinner sole in the area of the toe joints and the overall very soft construction make it possible to “grip” with the toes in overhangs, the rounded “wings” on the side provide better traction on volumes. At the tip, the sole has the usual 90° degree edge – even on micro-steps it can be kicked with it prima. The Theory also impresses with hooking: a large but thin toepatch in the front provides grip and sensitivity, while a well-shaped and rubberized heel in the back ensures a snug fit and plenty of pressure. Actually, the Theory is intended for competitors and ambitious indoor climbers. Bet that he will soon also be seen on many blocks?
positive: Very soft and sensitive boulder shoe with new sole construction, which provides more friction on volumes and allows more pull with the toes in the steep; great heel fit, prima Toepatch
negative: With long second toes it can press at the front initially something
Material: microfiber and suede in tubular construction
Sole: 3.5 mm Vibram XS-Grip 2, D-Tech technology, P3 system
Last: asymmetrical, preload and downturn moderate
Info: lasportiva.com
Price: 145 euros
Order La Sportiva Theory here in our partner stores
Scarpa Drago LV
The popular Drago has been joined by a Low Volume (LV) version in the fall of 2020. The new model retains all the advantages of the Drago, but is characterized by a smaller volume and thus fits perfectly on narrow feet with a flat instep as well as feet with a smaller heel.
Order Scarpa Drago LV here in our partner stores
Parrot from Lowa
As a comfortable climbing shoe for the climbing garden, multi-pitch routes and the hall, Lowa has designed its new Parrot. Friction is provided by an XS-Grip sole from Vibram. The Parrot is also available in a version with two Velcro closures.
Order Lowa Parrot here at our partner stores
La Sportiva Zenit
The Zenit is a comfortable climbing shoe for ambitious all-rounders. The shoe is made of only one piece of knit upper material, which perfectly adapts to different foot shapes thanks to different amounts of stretch.
La Sportiva Zenit order here at our partner stores
La Sportiva Cobra 4:99
With the Cobra 4:99 La Sportiva has addressed the target group of speed climbers. The slip-on shoe is on and off in a flash, and it looks fast, too, after all. The Toepatch has in this case, however, less adhesion than the rest of the shoe rubber, to avoid “friction losses” when die wall-high sprinting.
La Sportiva Cobra 4:99 order here at our partner stores
Conclusion
With these new shoes you can’t go wrong in 2022. If you need a new pair, make sure to check out some of the the models we tested for this article out. This article about new climbing shoes in 2022 is also really nice.
More reviews: