Rock climbing is very much physically challenging. It requires hard practice as well as experience before you can tackle hard climbs. As you continuously get used to climbing, you will soon develop the skills you need to be a good rock climber. Your confidence and strength can be boosted together with your skills in climbing by training with a hangboard. While this form of training is not for beginners, it can and will help you once you become a proficient climber. It mainly helps in developing finger and grip strength.
Doing the physical training should be done when it is offseason and cold and wet in most northern regions like US and UK/Europe. During this time, you must eat well and spend training at the gym to help you develop your strength. In order for you to improve your skills as a climber, you must first build your fingers’ strength. Moreover, hangboarding can help you with this.
With regards to the best training product that you can have, you have several options out in the market. A climbing hangboard is very important during your training. There are lots of hangboards that vary in the materials used. There are types of hangboards that are suited for the expert climber, while there are types which are suited for the beginners. These hangboards are suited for climbers with varied preferences and abilities. Read on for more details that will help you in identifying the perfect hangboard for you.
Best Hangboards for Climbing Training: Trango Rock Prodigy Training Center
This was designed by two of the most popular climbing coaches, Mark and Michael Anderson. They wrote the book, “The Rock Climber’s Training Manual.” This book talks about building a successful training regimen. It also reflects a systematic mentality. This board gives varied edges and pockets that grow in difficulty, each gradually of little depth as regards to the outside world.
It is a bit disorienting- your index finger has further to work than the pinkie. While on the other hand, precise growth is very much simple, just like changing your hands’ location. This is an instinctive way for those climbers of a number of levels to impel their limits.
This design makes fine improvements as log increases when you are in organized fingerboard training.
It also offers a large grip selection of several types in our review, which include those type which is made to function in many ways. Moreover, the two-part pattern allows an individual to install the other two halves, which is the ideal distance away to match the body shape and size.
This model needs most effort and expanse to mount this on the wall. It is said to be among the most challenging type of board that you will install. Moreover, depending on the spacing, this hangboard requires the most effort and acreage for wall mounting. Thus, it is considered to be among the challenging boards. It is said to be a more substantial type of investment than any other board. However, if you tend to have the finest training tool which is worth buying, the Trango Rock Prodigy is the best-recommended option.
Key Features are as follows:
- Diversity of pockets and edges
- Works great for different users
- Progressive holds for the best strength- training
- Facilitates ergonomics and good form
- Most exigent model to mount
- Takes wide spaces than others
Best Wooden Model: Metolius Wood Grips Compact II
One of the top choices for the best hangboards is the best wooden model. With several textured for the wooden model, this kind of board is proven to be gentle for your skin while giving the grip you want. Other boards do not fit on tight spaces, but this model if different because of its compact design. No worries about small dimensions because this model can still offer a higher than average of edges and pockets with outstanding progression options. This ideal diversity of utilization makes a 1000 model the considerable option for mid-range rock climbing out in 5.10 to 5.13 range. You will surely love how well its features, grips, and holds are, that allow the group to vary the exercises and work-outs to retain its interesting relatively than repetitive along with making you a better climber.
The selection of the holds of this hangboard is an additional feature of this model that you will love. It’s all- small inclusive size set some of them holds a little crowded, though inoperative. Nevertheless, for its tightly packed size, you will think that the trade-off is very much sensible and doesn’t diminish excessive from the totality broad appeal of this particular board. If you are certain of getting a model that won’t disappoint you and will help you with your home training and work-out, then this model is one of the best options which is worth buying. And with appealing wood finish, you can be able to place this model anywhere without giving anyone an eyesore.
Key Features are as follows:
- Compact design
- Top-notch texture
- Best progression of pockets and edges
- Good looks
- Excessive chalks cause gummy holds
Best Bang for The Buck: Metolius 3D Simulator
This is one of the mega-popular brands for rock climbing products. Therefore, it is a bit ponder that this model is said to be the finest training board for rock climbing by several climbing enthusiasts. Throughout the years, this model has undergone several updates and iterations that had helped in improving its total ergonomics and progression. This is the main reason why this remains a versatile and stand-out model among the other types of boards.
Also, this model undoubtedly wins as the Best Buy Award as candidly being the greatest hangboard considering your money. The main description for this is an affordable and awesome board at the same time. Its measurement makes it a perfect symmetry training board. Its efficient design to arrange the holds along with the broad arc. The arch lessens both outward and downward to provide a finer forearm clearance and so preventing your arms from scraping during holds. Another pro of this is that it comes with free hardware that you can use for full instructions and mounting of the board at your home. If you are a beginner, there is a training guide that can help you at the start of your training. You will be able to know how you can use the said model in strengthening your fingers. It also comes in five different colors; therefore, you have the chance to pick a color that would best coordinate with your room where you are planning to mount the board.
Key Features are as follows:
- Perfect symmetry
- Good grip
- Durable material
- Includes training guide and instruction hardware
- Color options
Best for High- End Climbers (mid-5.13 up): Beastmaker 2000
This model, Beastmaker 2000, is precisely what the name entails a well-built beast of the board for expert high- hard climbers. Earnestly, there are models that warm-up holds are equally balanced with the other challenging grip boards. This series, 2000, coddles nothing and gives only the nearly intense features. It contains no jugs but only single edge four-fingered “warm-up”, no pairs of finger pockets (three) since it is mainly designed for one arm only. The absence of features on its jugs makes it up with its heinously hard ones, sporting almost all mono and its two-fingered pockets of different models tested. Its abruptness border on entity ridiculously brutal. For instance, a 42-degree sloper seems nearly out of the question to some 5.13 climbers in the absence of cheating by moving the sides. This is a matter of fact combination of all the features, including the grips that make the Beastmaker 2000 an important put up challenge for those top-echelon and dedicated climbers who are looking for a next-level for their skills.
This board is not suitable for those climbers who are just starting fingerboard training or those who just wanted to max out about 5.12 a/V5. It is perfect for climbers who cis already capable of sending 5.13/V8 routes because it can offer a better progression. But if you tend to have boards that do not require skill level up, then this one is best for you. It keeps the same benefits as compact design, texture, a nice number of the holds. However, it is made for climbing folks ranging from 5.10 to 5.13.
Key Features are as follows:
- Compact dimensions
- Best for the high-difficulty rock climbers
- Excellent texture
- Several 1 and 2 finger pockets
- Holds for warm up are just fine
- Not suitable for intermediate or beginner climbers
- No shortage for vicious holds
Best Pinches and Slopers: Sole iLL Iron Palm
This model lives to what its name implies. Whereas some boards seem to focus more on finger strength on the crimpers, this type instead has unusual pinches and slopers which are best among the game. The very first thing that you might notice on this type of board is its two large balls on its peak two corners. The rounded features are said to be further flat on the top, while slowly sloping off on its sides, that allows you to simply adjust your work-out while improving the grip strength. Iron Palm also has the greatest pinches of whichever board a climber has seen. It contains two unconnected sets of pinches which you can use separately or even mixed together that will probably create three sets of different pinches that can help in improving the capacity of squeezing juice from the novel. The distinctive pinch grips and slopers on this type of board are best for either one general strength or fine-tune skills through varied possible uses.
In general, what makes this board unique is that it contains only four boards with wide edges and has no pocket in the conventional sense. With its four distinct edges, you will be able to use whichever of your fingers. An additional advantage of this model is that it gives you a feeling of difficulty since you have no chance to “cheat” by the use of the friction on the side of the pockets. This board also has good edges progression, but you might wish that it has one, which is quite smaller. The board is also fairly a big model than is capable of reducing your alternatives for the mounting location. Nonetheless, if ever you have a nice space for this board, its dimension encourages better form as well as generally made it easier for your elbows and shoulders if you tend to have a board that offers more alternatives than most this one is best for you.
Key Features are as follows:
- Great for sloper training
- Tested to have the best pinches
- Wide dimensions that are easier for the shoulders
- Needs more space
- Fewer edges
Space and Money Saver: Metolius Project
If you opt to have a board with the lowest-priced but still with reasonable performance, this is suited for you. Even though this board is not the best among the other boards, the low expense is one reason why you should buy it, especially if you are in a tight budget. This the cheapest brand among the bunch. Metolius Simulator 3D is a nice value than this. Conversely, this model offers compact models, and almost fit anywhere you wanted to mount the board.
Particularly, compact dimensions have fewer holds. It contains a reasonable option of grips depending on its size. There are climbers who want fewer grip options, though. The primary disadvantage of this model is that most of the holds which are habitually used by the climbers are on the center of this board. Because of this, it becomes less comfortable to utilize and cause difficulty on the shoulders. If you have a little space, the Beastmaker 1000 is still the best option than this though its almost twice its price.
Key Features are as follows:
- Low cost
- Almost all the used edges are at the board center
- Very compact
- Nice number of hold choices for a small size
Great Value for a Wooden Board: Metolius Wood Grips Compact II Hangboard
This is a model that is considered to be the best-priced among all the wood models out in the market. These wood boards are normally easier for your skin and look pleasant aesthetically if you try to mount this in a frequently used area inside your house. This is the best value model among the bunch. This also comes with soberly compact dimensions, which means that looking for a space to mount is much uncomplicated rather than a full-sized kind. You can possibly mount these above doorways with substandard height ceilings, compress into the basements, or any other areas wherein a full-sized board cannot stand a possibility of the fitting.
While small, the testing team considered this model to give enough hold choices that can be used for long-term and consistent training. The price is said to be good. However, the team still prefer Beastmaker than this model though the price is almost doubled. If you are a climber who is not working on a budget and has no issue on space restrictions, the recommended model for you is the Metolius Simulator 3D. The price is just the same yet encourages a far nice form while it offers important holds and helps in a fine sequence improvement. However, for a wooden, compact model that keeps the price reasonable, this is hard to beat.
Key Features are as follows:
- Great value
- Classy look
- Compact dimensions
- Just enough pockets and edges
- Not the favorite wood texture
Perfect for travel: Awesome Woodys Cliff Board Mini Hangboard
This is a perfect board for travelers who repeatedly take on different roads. Whether for an extended rock-climbing trip or the all-to usually away from the local gym on a business trip, this small equipment is perfect for you since you can bring it with you anywhere you go. It is equally the same with the laptop size keyboard, and you can easily hang it up nearly somewhere without instructing a single crew. However, it is amazingly stable considering the single point interruption. While this model might be fully compact, it still gives just enough holds that make it interesting. You might even think that its edge option is a bit respectable, knowing its tiny size.
A possible downside of this kind of board is while it is considered to be suited for traveling in the middle of quality work out it doesn’t automatically suitable for daily fingerboard training. This is because of its narrowness that uplifts a poor form, which eventually elevates stress the climbers both elbows and shoulders. Still, if it’s for irregular use while you are traveling, for van life, or just to remain entertained throughout a inclement stretch of fall trip on the road, this one is completely appropriate. For a swift fix that you can have anywhere, this board is worth your money. If you love the free drill notion of this type of board at the same time you still want a well around type, then this Awesome Woodies is the best option you have.
Key Features are as follows:
- Small, portable, lightweight
- You can hang it almost anywhere
- No drilling needed
- Slots are not too comfortable
- Not recommended for daily use
- Moon Fingerboard
Today, the name simply implies an LED-powered rock climbing wall. This wicked hard fingerboard is indeed a cult classic for long years. This board is just a simple hangboard. It has 15 holes, which are all focused and compact. Curving shapes of this board are nice to use and ergonomic. Despite its relative scarcity, its edges still provide a good variety of shapes and depths. Its jugs are adequate to warm it up. Also, the slopers and the pockets are amazing supplements.
Most of the hangboarding is just focused on the crimp strength, this in the stadium the Moon board gloss. It contains a bit of the hardest crimps available in the market. This type of hangboard is among the lightest and smallest in the market. If you are a folk who is lash to space, this board will work perfectly for you. The price of this board is equally small. No wonder with its board size, it still offers an excellent value. This type of board is not recommended for all folks for the reason of its difficulty. But when it comes to the advanced and expert climbers, this is the best option you got.
Unconventional honorable mention: Metolius Rock Rings 3D hangboard
Instead of a regular hangboard, this one is made of two independent hang holds with a number of different grips on both. Given this clear limitation, this Rock Ring is will never win compared to full-fledge hangboards. The hold option is limited to a pair of four, which includes three pockets of different sizes and a jug. With the positioning of a finger, it is then possible for a simulate progression, yet it is quite a trouble than the boards’ worth.
Despite its low score, this board is not in the absence of its uses. Unconventional suspension builds for pleasant pulls and opens a wide variety of options for training. This model is also descent for option when you are traveling since it is versatile and compact and require two-points only to hang. Thus, if you have a space in your suitcase, these Rock Rings are said to be better hang than those on the door jambs in a hotel room.
Finally, these boards are cheap, and it is commonly found in the market on sale. For its cost, it would not be difficult to add up a pair to its present setup, or you can use the ring as a mobile option. This type is not recommended for standalone training structure, yet this can be a good compliment for the dedicated climbers.
Tips on Choosing the Best Hangboard that will Fit your Need
Hangboarding is most implemented as an element of a plan for training from intermediate to advanced climbers. For those climbers who are just about to begin their journey as a rock climber, hangboarding can be their quick direct to injury. Nonetheless, never be afraid of skipping hangboarding for some time.
Hangboards or most popularly known as fingerboards have been a part of the training for rock climbing regimes along with its good reason. It is said that there is no other way for you to test your finger strength than using a hangboard. If you haven’t tried one, you will surely be amazed, together with a nice training plan, you will soon notice splendid improvements in just several weeks. You may think that it is an infomercial, yet it is true. These hangboards are not too expensive and parcel of training potentiality for the relatively inexpensive amount. If you choose to get a membership in a gym, you will be paying for a monthly fee, but you can only train two, three, or four days a week in your free time.
No climber complained about having a strong finger for a specified route, and as for Tony Yanira’s view, if a climber cannot hold the holds to start with, your tolerance does not even matter. The different training boards lead to boosting the strength of the finger tremendously while, in the real situation, it does not have too much time in terms of performing. There are several climbers who prefer easy routes inside the gym repeatedly, and there is no uncertainty that this gives fun and seem great for your ego in real rock climbing is a power-based type of sport, therefore climbing a single route that you never make it to top, does far good for you than climbing a super easy route. Hangboarding is an epidemy of the power of focus, and it has the chance to help every feature of climbing from driving harder grades up to giving confidence for a daily route.
Kinds of Hangboards
Hangboards are divided into two categories: these are plastic and wooden. Plastic hangboards are always a number of varied polyester or polyurethane. The latter is lighter and touch more coarse-grained, yet in practice, there is no clear real training contrast between those two. Wooden hangboards have a skin-friendly texture, yet this is less common and quite expensive. The materials used for your hangboards do not matter; what is important is how comfortable you are on the hangboard that you chose.
A climber has a unique style, strength, and weakness. Once you are approaching your training with a particular goal, a good hangboard can help you improve and grow. If you are repeatedly blocky, stick out routes, you might look for a way that will help you train the strength of your pinch. If you are aware that you are struggling with slopers, you need to look for a board that you can be comfortable with them. If your goal is increasing the strength of your crimp, be sure to pick a board with a development that will fit you.
There are only a few hangboards that are capable of catering to all types of climbers. Few of them are much more focused. You must choose a board which is you think is right for the level of your ability.
Intermediate climbers may love the Metolius Simulator 3D, and for elite climbers, they tend to try Moon Fingerboard because of the plenty of challenges it can give. If you are not certain, one of the boards that can possibly work for all your needs (Metolius Contact, Trango RPTC, or So iLL Palm) may be suited for you.
What to Look for in a good Hangboard for Home training?
The perfect hangboard for a climber should have a number of holds that you can be able to barely grip but only a few that you can’t be able to manage. In contrast with the known belief, fingerboards’ main purpose is not only for performing pull-ups in any case of the number of folks you see cranking them in the gym. If you are capable of holding into the holds forever or say 20 to 30 seconds, then you are establishing any power. Instead, you are only building endurance, and you must be hanging on smaller edges.
Hangboards are designed for improving finger power and the maximum grip and crimping strength. Choose a board with a few holds, and you will certainly fall in 7- 10 seconds, and some will just get tired and will surely be struggling in 3 to 5 sets of 7-10 seconds. A few slopers and jugs can be used for warm up or even for the rest of your work out when the climbers’ open-handed crimp strength is fried. Nevertheless, a climber will be served if the remaining is all in line. Forget your ego for a while, pleat up until you are unsuccessful, and fail fast, then have cheer in knowing that you might start getting stronger, though you seem abysmal since you are only capable of hanging for a number of seconds.
Three materials that are commonly used are polyurethane, wood, and the last one is the polyester resin. Each of them has subtle disadvantages and advantages. For perspective, polyester and polyurethane are what nearly makes almost all the climbing holds. The two may have the same characteristics, but not all.
The main advantage of wood is that its less friction, which means that it is a long way easier for your skin than the best-textured polyurethane models or resin polyurethane. Because of the friction, which is low, it leads to holding on harder that is a bonus while training. The disadvantage of this is that the shapes tend to a bit more limited and do not have varied holds, unlike resin boards.
Many climbing boards have polyester resin though it was replaced with polyurethane in recent years due to durability and weight issues. The only advantage of this material is that it can form all imaginable shapes. Also, it has more various hold options compared to wooden counterparts. The primary downside of this is its texture, which seems to be hard for your skin.
At present, most of the hangboards are now made of this material. More and more boards use this because of the lower weight plus, the less possibility to chip as you are mounting it on the wall.
A climber needs to know the best type of hangboard and the suited space where to hang it. Rock climbing training will help in increasing the finger power as well as contact strength that will allow you to hang into progressively tiny holds.
Conclusion of our big Hangboard Review
An ideal and reliable hangboard for climbing and bouldering grip strength training is one of the best and essential pieces of gear for advanced climbers.
Follow our guide to make the best decision and find yourself an excellent ally to make grip strength gains when training for harder routes and bouldering problems.
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